While I do take suggestions for my column, most of the time I come up with places to review simply by driving around the Capital District and noting places I haven’t been to before. This week’s review is a case in point: As I was driving along New Loudon Road in Latham, I noticed a nondescript building simply labeled as the Grand Buffet, and I decided I should give it a shot.

Pretty much the first thing I noticed upon walking in was the price: roughly $9 per head for dinner, plus beverages (although hot tea was free). This struck me as just a little bit expensive; most buffet places I’ve been to are a buck or two cheaper.

One of the key factors in judging a buffet restaurant is selection, and I was fairly pleased with what we found at the Grand Buffet, except for the notable lack of General Tso’s chicken. There was most of the usual Chinese fare, a fair number of plain ol’ American dishes, a few Italian offerings, a solid spread of desserts, and a sushi bar.

The layout of this restaurant could use a little work, though. The aisles between the buffet bars are somewhat narrow; it got a bit crowded at times. I also found it easy to miss what I was looking for.

In the final analysis—for any restaurant—the quality of the food is most important, and it varied fairly widely here—unsurprising for a buffet establishment. High points of the meal were the cajun chicken and the seafood delight; I found both of them to be very good indeed. On the other hand, the boneless spare ribs—a staple of most Chinese restaurants—were mediocre at best. The sushi was also just barely passable, although I will admit that you would be hard-pressed to find a better price for the quantity in the area.

Overall, Grand Buffet is comparable to other Chinese buffets in the area. The food is a bit more varied, though, and I would suggest that you consider it as a change of pace the next time you go out.

Grand Buffet is located on Route 9 in Latham. To get there, drive west on Route 7 out of Troy. After about four miles, take the exit for Route 9, Latham. Turn right at the traffic light at the end of the ramp, and Grand Buffet is roughly two miles ahead on the right. The restaurant is not well marked, so keep your eyes open.