When I started exploring the Capital Region several years ago, one of the first things I noticed was the abundance of fish fry restaurants. I lived about three miles from the ocean while growing up in Jersey and almost never saw them, but around here, they’re everywhere. Since I’m not all that big on deep-fried food, I avoided them.

Until recently, that is. I read an article in the Times Union about how fish is in higher demand during Lent, and business at the local fish frys is booming. Figuring that all of those people can’t be wrong, my wife and I drove up Hoosick St. to Ted’s Fish Fry in Brunswick.

Now, this is not a place to come to for decor. The interior consists of two sections: a sock-hop era counter and short-order grill, and a fast-food style seating area dressed in the oranges and browns from the worst of the Seventies. Add in a thirty-year-old stereo playing one of the local oldies stations, and the overall effect is simply of a restaurant that’s been around for a while. This sounds like a place that could easily be very grungy, but it’s not—Ted’s is remarkably clean and well kept.

The menu is simple: batter-fried seafood (fish, clams, scallops, shrimp), chicken tenders, burgers, hot dogs, and a couple of sandwiches. There are a few side dishes (notably french fries and cole slaw), and sodas and shakes for drinks. (Have you ever noticed how “throwback” restaurants always seem to serve shakes?)

Prices are pretty good—for three or four bucks you can get pretty much anything on the menu, and many items are less than that. (The combination dinners are more, but you’re probably better off ordering a la carte unless they’re exactly what you want.) Figure you can get a sandwich of some sort, fries, and a soda for about seven, or eight if you want a shake.

We got a fish fry, some chicken fingers, way too many french fries, and a coffee shake. Unsurprisingly, Ted’s does fish best—the batter was nicely seasoned, and the fish was about the right consistency. The rest of the food was just about perfectly average—standard diner fries, fairly boring chicken fingers, and a fast-food style shake. There was, however, lots of it—neither of us finished our orders.

Ted’s demonstrates that fast, cheap, and easy doesn’t have to be scary, and doesn’t have to be burgers. If seafood appeals to you at all, drop in and give this Capital Region institution a try.

To get to Ted’s, go north from campus to Hoosick Street. Turn right, and go up the hill about two miles into Brunswick. Ted’s is just before the Price Chopper on the right hand side.