Over the summer, a new sign appeared on the corner store of the Price Chopper Plaza in Brunswick, leading me to wonder what exactly “Terese” was, but I never was motivated enough to go find out. Recently, though, the word “Cafe” was added to the sign, landing the establishment squarely on my “to be reviewed” list.
Cafe Terese’s decor is largely unchanged from that of its predecessor, Waffleworks. The histo-rical photographs of Bruns-wick have been swapped for floral drawings, but the light wood paneling and green vinyl seats remain, as does the overall feel of a nice, clean diner. Since it is now a family-run Italian restaurant, this atmosphere is a bit of a mismatch, but it does not detract too much from dining.
What shines about Terese is its menu—mostly Italian, with some standard American fare as well, but at least half of the dishes have a unique twist to them. My wife and I ordered a pasta chips appetizer, cheese tort-ellini, and pecan chicken. Drinks were a relatively weak iced tea and a fabulous tiramisu latté that tasted just like a warm, liquid version of the classic Italian dessert.
The pasta chips were quite unlike anything either of us had had before. The pasta dough—made on the premises—was cut into large triangles and fried in olive oil. The chips were then seasoned, and a bit of mozzarella was melted on them. They were served with a small bowl of tasty marinara for dipping. We also got enough in one order for about five people—it is an Italian restaurant after all. Our conclusion was that they were a bit greasy, but definitely the highlight of the meal.
The portions for our entrees were similarly large, but unfortunately they weren’t as good as the appetizer. The tomato basil cream sauce for the tortellini turned out to be basically a red-tinged alfredo sauce—the basil wasn’t really a factor in the dish at all. It was also really rich, so much so that a small amount was really all we could handle at one time.
The pecan chicken was also quite rich, but unique. Thin chicken cutlets were encrusted with crushed pecans and fried up in olive oil. This was topped with a Dijon mustard sauce. The combination was interesting, and I rather enjoyed it, but it’s probably not for everyone. The red cabbage it was served with made for a nice complement to the dish.
The wait staff was very friendly, and the owner was even more so—she stopped by our table more than once to ensure everything was to our liking. The only complaint I can register is that our entrees didn’t arrive until 45 minutes after we ordered. As it was not overly busy, my guess is that the pecan chicken took a while to prepare.
The bottom line was not too bad—we paid $40 even, including tax and tip. For lunch, expect to pay about $10 per person. My recommendation is to wait until you’re in the mood for something new, because the strength of the restaurant is certainly in its array of unusual dishes.
Cafe Terese is located in the Price Chopper plaza in Brunswick. To get there, go north from campus on 15th Street or Burdett Ave. to Hoosick St. Turn right, and go up the hill and straight on for about a mile and a half. The restaurant is on the right.
