Many restaurants have copies of favorable reviews hanging on the wall. Sitar, on Central Ave. in Colonie, is no exception. What’s interesting, though, is that the one right in the center is from the March 8, 1989, issue of The Poly. Kent Lacross extolled the virtues of this establishment, saying that “the hard part is not going there more often.”

Nearly 14 years later, Lacross’ description is still accurate.

The dining room and adjoining enclosed porch are large and fairly spacious, except that the divider between the smaller booths is a bit low, making it hard to screen out the conversation in the booth next to you. Besides that one detail, the atmosphere is quite nice. As a bonus, you can see part of the kitchen and the large tandoori ovens from most of the restaurant.

The menu is fairly traditional—spinach, potatoes, and tomatoes feature prominently in many dishes, and there is the usual variety of cream and yogurt-based sauces. Beef, lamb, chicken, and vegetarian dishes are all in abundance, and the restaurant also has a decent wine list and a well-stocked bar.

Our food arrived in a reasonable amount of time and was excellent. I’ve had better papadum, but our other appetizer, vegetable simosas, was fabulous—not nearly as much grease as at some other area establishments.

The entrees were even better. My wife ordered a vegetable medley in a goat cheese-based sauce (No, we can’t remember the name of the dish,) that was rich and flavorful without being too heavy. I went with one of my all-time favorites, lamb vindaloo, and was impressed with the tenderness of the meat and the seasoning of the sauce. We of course also had lots of nan, an Indian flatbread that it is difficult to get enough of.

A word to spice lovers: All of our food came quite mild, including the vindaloo, which is typically very hot. If you want something spicy, you need to ask. If you don’t like spicy, there’s no need to worry. Either way makes for an excellent meal.

The big catch is that Sitar is a bit pricey for your typical college student. Appetizers and dinner for two ran $45 with no drinks and no dessert. On the plus side, we each had plenty of food to bring home for another day’s meal.

Price aside, though, Sitar remains as described in this paper nearly 14 years ago: the best Indian restaurant in the Capital District. If you like Indian food, don’t leave the area before paying Sitar a visit.

To get to Sitar, take Route 7 west out of Troy to the Northway (I-87). Pick up 87 South to exit 2W, which is Route 5 (Central Ave.) west towards Schenectady. Go past Route 155 (New Karner Rd.), and Sitar will be another half-mile or so on the right—it’s a bit hard to spot, so stay on the lookout.