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Current Issue: Volume 130, Number 1 July 14, 2009

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Posted 03-18-2009 at 5:30AM

James Fagan
Staff Reviewer

Brunswick Barbecue and Brew, located on Route 2 (about a 15 minute drive from RPI), is out to deliver a good American meal. This restaurant provides an amazing environment for its cuisine, but the final product is about average.

Walking into the restaurant, the first impression comes from the quiet background music. The wood decor is also very fitting; it is comforting and gives a rustic feel. The all-wood bar is quite an enticing sight. This is offset by some of the small, bulky television screens in a few of the dining sections that seem a bit out of place.

The service for the evening was very friendly, helpful, and polite, and complemented the atmosphere of the restaurant. The wait staff was responsive while making sure that everyone thoroughly enjoyed his meal. Our first hint at the meal’s theme came from the appetizer, with a few well-known barbecue basics: potato skins and Piggy Wiggles (pulled pork sliders). The cheese that coated the potato skins didn’t offer any sharpness and lacked overall flavor. The pulled pork sliders were moist with a great texture, and were served with warm, buttery rolls. The taste, however, left this consumer looking for something more; they were missing that little kick that makes for great barbecue.

The main courses were a variety of barbecue basics: first a Brunswick Burger, then the Brunswick Sampler, which consisted of Kansas City-style ribs, chicken, and pulled pork.

The Brunswick Burger was served well-done despite being ordered medium-well and came with a side of sweet potato fries. The burger was nothing special, but the sweet potato fries added a surprising delight to the meal, resulting in a nice balance of flavors.

The Brunswick Sampler was a combination of quintessential barbecue favorites. The ribs had a perfect tenderness, with meat falling right off the bone. The chicken had a nice smokiness, although it was a bit dry. The pulled pork had decent moisture with an appetizing initial flavor. Like the appetizers, all these dishes did lack that last bit of flavor needed to make it stand out from other barbecue. The meal also came with corn bread and the choice of two sides from a variety of options, including a baked potato, rice pilaf, macaroni and cheese, Boston baked beans, and garlic mashed potatoes. For the evening, I selected the Boston baked beans and garlic mashed potatoes. The baked beans were typical, but overall tasty. The garlic mashed potatoes were made superbly, combining great texture and flavor. Unfortunately, the flavor of the corn bread was masked by the dry texture.

Brunswick Barbecue & Brew has a few other options to offer. They have three styles of ribs, including Kansas City, Memphis, and Brunswick. Other offerings include the steak sandwich, fried chicken club, and grilled vegetable wrap. There are also a few choices of pastas. On the night we visited, they also offered some seafood options that might be of interest.

The portion size of the meals was around average for the price paid. The Brunswick Sampler, at $19.99, should be able to stuff most college students. The half-pound Brunswick Burger, at $8.99, is a good amount for the price.

Throughout the evening, the food, in general, lacked the kick that makes great barbecue. Overall, the barbecued and grilled selection was average and the sides were alright; the atmosphere may have been the only impressive aspect of the night.



Posted 03-18-2009 at 5:30AM
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