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Current Issue: Volume 130, Number 1 July 14, 2009

Features


Words to Eat By
Bistro satiates customers

Posted 03-18-2009 at 4:35AM

Cubby Goldsmith
Staff Writer

El Platano is a small Latin-American bistro in southern Troy set on providing a healthy, fresh meal for those who walk through the door. The restaurant offers a relaxing atmosphere set by soft Latin jazz, green décor, and comfortable lighting, which was a delight after a 20-minute walk through Troy’s blustery weather.

From appetizer to dessert, the theme of freshness was well preserved. First, a lemon mint iced tea provided a refreshing taste leading into mariquitas—fried plantain chips—served with either salsa mojito or guasaca, both of which were quite appetizing. The salsa mojito, a pungent garlicky sauce, provided just the right amount of kick in the mix, while the guasaca was a flavorful guacamole.

The main course also offered up an acceptable meal that preserved the freshness of the overall experience. Picadillo, a dish of spiced ground meat, was rich and savory, but was served with beans that were a bit coarse. The vegetarian option for the evening—lenteja guisada, a lentil stew—was a bit bland and thin; it was served with a Portuguese roll that seemed to have too much garlic for the dish. The ensalada de casa was a garden-fresh combination that was slightly overdressed but still impressive. Both the bean-filled and the picadillo empanadas were quite pleasing, although the picadillo variety seemed to be a superior combination.

Unfortunately, a few items that looked very enticing were unavailable. These included albondigas and Yucca Yum Cakes.

Dessert was quite a pleasant surprise. The flan—a highly undervalued custard dish—was exceptionally smooth and sweet. The banana fritters were an uplifting experience that left a very satisfying ending to the meal. Both the flan and the banana fritters were served with fresh fruit.

The service was friendly and reasonable. It took about 20 minutes from the time we ordered to receive our main meals. The staff was respectful and generous, giving us a free refill of tea when the first pitcher served was mostly full of ice.

Overall, the food was relatively inexpensive for the portions available; most meals, except those with seafood, were under $10. The restaurant also offers a “starving artist platter,” consisting of chicken breast or pork loin with black beans, rice, and plantains, for $6.

El Platano is adamant about being environmentally responsible; it uses energy-efficient lighting, composts, cleans with environmentally friendly products, and uses its cooking oil for fuel.

So if you are looking for a bit of variation, fresh food, and a relaxing time, I suggest taking a few friends and traveling down to First Street to visit this delightful eatery.



Posted 03-18-2009 at 4:35AM
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