I hate chain restaurants. Nay, I despise them. I used to work at a luxurious upscale hotel in downtown Chicago. Chicago is a city with a rich cultural heritage and a similarly diverse cadre of hundreds of excellent local restaurants of every imaginable cuisine. Yet week after week, the guests line up to ask where the local Friday’s, or Chili’s, or … dare I write it … McDonald’s was. On our block alone were nearly a dozen excellent local eateries, of every price range, yet they’d walk eight, 10, even 20 blocks, to shield themselves from the danger of trying something new and foreign.
Can you sense the rage I still feel toward that attitude? After years of enduring my complaints, my friends have finally begun to realize the folly of even suggesting we enjoy an evening at any of the indiscernible horde of flair-enhanced chain locations in the capital district. By way of explanation, I present you chain-lovers with the pinnacle in local, independent restaurant technology in the capital region: BEFF’s.
Located in the quasi-suburban neighborhood on the north side of Everett Road in Albany, BEFF’s is an experience uniquely Albany. Owner Pete Blanchfield and partners have spent 14 years feeding and liquoring the people of this west-side neighborhood from their current location and formerly from a tavern just off Central Avenue.
Sure, there’s flair, but it’s genuine, authentic flair. Blanchfield and friends love golf, and show it. The bar area is lovingly decorated with tee flags from golf courses around the world. An attached dining room follows a Guinness theme; Blanchfield is proudly Irish, as it turns out.
But what does “BEFF” stand for? Manager Mike Bliven explained it was a childhood nickname for the substantial Blanchfield—“Big Ed Fat Field.” I’m sworn to secrecy on the exact etymology, but I’ve been led to believe anyone would understand immediately, after spending a few minutes with the owner.
As you might expect, the menu follows a golf theme: sandwiches are “sandwedges,” with the chicken variety listed under the “birdies” heading. One pass through the menu and you get the sense that BEFF has listed every entrée and appetizer he likes. In all my visits, I’ve never found a poor choice.
For example, on the most recent visit, a turkey burger was served with real mashed potatoes. Everything about it was delicious. When pressed, Bliven revealed his favorite: BEFF’s Macho Nachos. “They’re probably the biggest nachos in the area,” explained Bliven, with a hand gesture intoning a huge oval-shaped plate and the slow spread of a sly grin across his face.
BEFF knows alcohol, too. Nearly two dozen beers are on tap, seasonally rotated. Bliven explained that in addition to a commitment to a solid beer selection, they pride themselves on keeping a variety of affordable wines available by the glass or bottle, and growing the selection of their latest addiction: single malt scotches.
The crowd is a friendly mix of locals engaged in lively conversation, but by design, the bar gives a sense of camaraderie without becoming deafening. Bliven noted they’ve begun inviting local guitar musicians to play on Thursday nights.
Perhaps the best way to think of BEFF’s is as the proper starting point of your evening out. You’ll be well-fed and leave in a good mood to make the short trip to the Madison Avenue bars, including Mahar’s (see last week’s Polytechnic). As always, follow BEFF’s advice, as printed on the menu: “If you’re drinking, don’t drive! Don’t even putt!” A BEFF’s dinner is the best compensation you can offer your designated driver.
BEFF’s is located at 95 Everett Road. Take I-787 South to I-90 West to Exit 5–Everett Road. Turn right off the exit and BEFF’s is about a mile and a half on your right. There is also a location just south of Albany at 367-371 Delaware Avenue in Delmar, but the atmosphere somehow clicks better at the Everett Road location. BEFF’s serves food Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-11 pm, and Sunday 3 pm-9 pm. The bar stays open a little later.
