The owners of Latham Biryani have done just that. From the outside it’s nothing much to look at, but the interior is extremely well done. The painted concrete walls have been nearly completely covered over with attractive wall hangings, the lighting has been redone, and the overall feel is of a very cozy establishment—perfect for a quiet meal for two.

My wife and I arrived at the tiny restaurant at about 4:30 on a weekday afternoon in the middle of a snowstorm. Thus, we had the place to ourselves, save for one businessman who was catching an early working dinner. The host was on the phone when we came in; we were seated right away, but he finished his conversation (three to four minutes) before bringing over menus.

Glancing them over, I noticed that prices were about $2 higher per entree than at other area Indian establishments. (With, of course, the notable exception of Sitar, which is a bit more upscale.) Selection was mostly standard, with a few new dishes that we hadn’t seen before.

After the initial faux pas, our service was quite good. The host was very friendly and attentive, our food was brought out promptly, and our water only ran out once. We selected beverages—chai for her, a mango lassi for me, both merely adequate—put in our food order, and made light conversation (you know: biophysics, partial differential equations, the ethics of America’s foreign policy, that sort of thing) until our food arrived.

First out was the papadum (lentil wafers—kind of the Indian version of tortilla chips), one of my personal favorites. My wife, on the other hand, doesn’t much like the stuff, although she always tries a bit to remind herself of that. Predictably, I was very pleased with it, and she pronounced it “not awful.”

We also ordered her favorite appetizer, vegetable samosas, which are packets of dough filled with highly seasoned peas and potatoes. These, too, measured up quite well. In particular, the chutneys they were served with—one plum-based and sweet, the other mint-based and spicy—were especially tasty.

Our main course arrived with the obligatory basket of nan (Indian flatbread), and my first reaction was disappointment: Our food looked very oily and not as appetizing as I was hoping for. On the other hand, it smelled great and we were hungry, so that wasn’t about to stop us.

Now, I’ve had chicken tikka masala in at least four different Indian restaurants. It’s never been exactly the same twice, but this was way off the mark—I was expecting a fairly light cream-based tomato sauce, and I got a thick, spicy sauce instead, almost like chicken vindaloo. I happen to also like vindaloo, and the meal was delicious—it just wasn’t what I’d intended to get. I checked the bill later and it did say “tikka masala,” so I guess they just have a different take on the dish.

The other dish was excellent: chunks of cheese and potatoes in this creamy sauce that was almost like a curry, but it wasn’t spicy at all—in fact, it tasted slightly sweet. Served over saffron rice, it was definitely a treat.

The total damages came to about $35, which is a little bit more than we usually spend for Indian, even considering the amount of food we got. The real value, I suspect, is Biryani’s lunch buffet, served from noon to 3 pm on weekdays (other than Monday, when the restaurant is closed).

While this is unlikely to become my favorite local Indian place, your mileage may vary, and it’s definitely worth the short trip over to Latham to try it out.

Latham Biryani is located on Route 9 (New Loudon Rd.) in Latham. To get there, take Route 7 west out of Troy. As you approach the Northway, stay in the middle lane—you wish to take the exit for Route 9. The exit ramp terminates at a traffic light; turn right onto Route 9. The restaurant is roughly two miles ahead on the right, shortly after the intersection with Route 155.